Château Grimaldi, house of art
February 27, 2013 8 Comments
The Grimaldi dynasty held a kind of sceptre over the Côte d’Azur for centuries. The château was built in 1300 as a castle above what is today Cagne-sur-Mer and has become iconic for this coastal town, about seven kms. west of Nice. It withstood sieges from time to time, as did Provence itself throughout its long history.
From the 17th-century the castle took on the character of a château with decorated salons. The baroque trompe l’oeil designs on the ceilings of the arched first and second floor landings have been restored in recent times – the sharp clarity of it all is vaguely surreal for me.
This is the drumroll before you enter the Grande Salle. From the immense flamboyant hearth to the extensive ceiling frescoes, I have seldom, if ever, been so impressed by a baroque interior. The central fresco is that of Panteon being struck by lightning, adorned on all sides by figures vaguely reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel. The surround of high arched windows flood the space with light.
More down to earth, on the first floor of the Château, they house the Museum of the Olive Tree, ranging from chest-high grinding stones to delicate 17th-century olive oil bottles, all associated with Cagne’s long farming history.
There are four further salles with art collections – a room of contemporary abstracts; the Suzy Solidor portrait collection; many landscapes of Cagne done by foreign artists over the past 150 years and the August Renoir collection. Below the broad staircase, there is a dimly-lit nook – a sarcophagus from the vicinity of the Château with what appears to be human bones. “Roman,” the attendant whispered.
The Renoir collection is temporarily housed at Grimaldi while La Collette, the home where Renoir spent his last years, is being renovated. You don’t see the well-known Renoirs. You see paintings, sketches and a few sculptures, mainly of family members. In one room there is his easel, chair and a number of empty canvases.
And, at one window, looking out over Cagne, there is a photograph of what you are seeing with an arrow indicating the location of La Collette. There are portraits of Renoir himself, several by Albert André, his biographer and archivist. In one such portrait, we see Renoir in profile, the bird-like energy, myopically close to his own canvas, intent and fragile under a broad-rimmed hat.
Nearby, a photograph of his easel and chair in the garden at La Collette. Below the photograph, the chair itself. I touched it.
© Will v.d. Walt
Janvier, 2013
www.willwilltravel.wordpress.com
Image Sources: Images by Will