The Koreans are set on their patrimony and each piece of historical value, large or small, is carefully numbered and thus, treasured and conserved. The list stretches to more than one hundred thousand, the inheritance of five millennia. The Number One on that list is the South Gate of Seoul, a gate structure from the Joseon epoque, between 1396 and 1398, constructed with seven other Gates.
When I crossed the main city throughway to the island on which the South Gate has been since the 14th-century, it was as if the skyscrapers around it, glass-clad, of immaculate design, were guarding the South Gate like cosmic guards.
I was impressed with the actual guards that were on display probably for the sake of tourists, rather enjoying, I imagine, the endless clicking of cameras. For me there was a massive leap of time in the costumes the guards were wearing, telling of an era in the East that the West was not aware of.
Inside the curved entrance there were painted beams, traditional art from many centuries before, magical in form and colour.
It was thus, with great shock, that on the night of the 10th February (the year was 2008), that I saw on Korean television that someone had set fire to the South Gate. It was established later that the person was psychologically troubled and was seeking some kind of revenge. Gigantic flames poured out of the wooden interior changing the whole aspect of the South Gate. Hundreds of firemen rushed to the scene and massive water curves were seen against the blinding lights around the building. The shocked crowds were not easy to control.
After some hours the fire was brought under control, but the destruction to the wooden structures in the interior and the roof was total. From 2008 reconstruction work was carried out. In 2013 the South Gate was reopened to the public. For Koreans the whole incident and what has followed carries deep symbolism.
What still haunts me is the image of a man, for some seconds on the television screen, with his arms open surrendering himself to his weeping, his face radiant with tears.
© Will van der Walt.
www.willwilltravel.wordpress.com
Les Semboules, Antibes
April, 2020
Source
Wikipedia : South Gate, Seoul ; The Eight Gates of Seoul
Images
South Gate – source lost
South Gate guard – my photograph
South Gate burning – Korea Times
South Gate, 10th February, 2008 – source lost
Note
It is a year since Notre Dame de Paris burnt down. If I had to find parallels, it would be the haunting moments, on television, of a woman weeping as she stood in the crowd watching the flames. “This is France,” she said. “This is our France that is burning here.” Yes, these events tell me, if I needed to be told, that we are more than flesh and blood. (See WWT 19.4.19)