The statue of a poet

 Third in a series of three

During World War One Kaiser Wilhelm II stood before the statue in the Corfu gardens and with spite, he asked, What is this bloke doing here?  Once again, there was the threat of destruction.

The Kaiser said of Heine that he was “the worst bastard of the German poets”, especially too, because the poet was of Jewish descent, whose work had been banned in Germany since 1843.  Sadistically, the Kaiser remarked:  “It is necessary to forgive my enemies, but not before they are hanged.”

The statue was removed from Corfu.  With the ever-present threat of destruction, it was taken into private ownership by Julius Campe, the publisher of Heine’s work.  In the years of the 1920s he offered the statue to Hamburg.  A public debate followed.  It was led by Adolf Barteis, a writer who, in the next decade when National Socialism reigned, would serve that cause well.  The statue was once again decried for Heine’s “anti-patriotic attitude”.  Campe received threats about the statue.  The urgency to get the statue out of Germany grew.

The solution came from Olga, Campe’s daughter, who had married a rich man in Paris, Edmond Bouchard, director of theatres, including the Folies Bergère.  Coming from Toulon, Bouchard had a property there.

Toulon now became the destination of Heine’s statue.  In 1939, the statue was taken by boat from Hamburg to Marseilles.  On arrival, it was transported by truck to Toulon.

During the German occupation in the Second World War, the statue was carefully hidden.  There it stayed until the Germans were defeated by the Allies.  In 1956, the town councillers of Toulon agreed that the statue of the German poet should be installed in the Jardin d’Acclimatation.

The Gzrimek bronze of Heine in Berlin

German writers, historians and those concerned pleaded with Toulon in 1997, the two-hundredth centenary of Heine’s birth, for the statue to be returned to Germany.  In 1954 they had already erected two statues to Heine, one in Berlin and one in Bremen.  The sculptor was Grzimet.  His work was not without controversy as the matter of Heinrich Heine had become most sensitive in post-war Germany, after more than a century of persecution.  The university at Düsseldorf was named after Heine, together with streets and parks throughout Germany.

The statue of Heinrich Heine, Toulon

The statue has remained in Toulon.  He sits there in a brown study under the trees of the botanical garden, his hair tousled.  With his right hand, I’m told, he points to the future.  On his lap there is a manuscript and we can’t really read anything of it.  It could be a love poem; it could be a tract on equality.

He has a neighbour — a memorial relief of Frédéric Mistral, the Provencal poet who received the Nobel prize in 1905.  I believe that the people of Toulon will look after their German, especially in the current climate of anti-semitism in France (February, 2019), but also because the words of a poet know no national boundaries.

© Will van der Walt

www.willwilltravel.wordpress.com

Les Semboules, Antibes

May, 2019

 

Sources

La Statue du poète Heine « Réfugiée » à Toulon, by André Peyrègne. Nous, Nice-Matin. 16th February, 2019

 

Images

Wikipedia – Kaiser Wilhelm, Heinrich Heine

 

“The highest conception of the lyric poet was given to me by Heinrich Heine. I seek in vain in all the realms of millennia for an equally sweet and passionate music. He possessed that divine malice without which I cannot imagine perfection… And how he employs German! It will one day be said that Heine and I have been by far the first artists of the German language.” –  Friedrich Nietzche, Ecce Homo, quoted from Wikipedia 

 

The statue of a poet

Second in a series of three

The Austrian Empress Elizabeth, known as Sisi, corresponded with Heine.  Bear in mind that Heine as a radical thinker wanting to dislodge the aristocracy of Europe, now received adulation from an aristrocrat.  She herself was eccentric, unpredictable and filled her noble role with difficulty.  Her letters to him border on eroticism.

To my master /  my soul weeps, she takes joy, she cries / this night she was one with your soul /  she was held intimately, passionately /  you held her against yours with fire / you fertilized her, filled her with felicity. /  She shudders, she shivers again, though she is calm.

Heine died in 1856 and was buried in Paris.  He was 59 years old.  In 1873, Sisi commissioned the Danish poet and sculptor, Hasselrüs, to make a statue of Heine.  Soon she discovered that the aldermen of Düsseldorf wanted nothing to do with the statue.  In fact, it was in danger of destruction.

Heine in 1851, old and sick

The statue was then transported in 1892 to the family chateau in Corfu, Greece, where it stood for many years.  At night Sisi would sit at the feet of the statue and believed that she was communing with Heine’s spirit.  She recited verses which made her think of her childhood in Germany:  “I used to have a fatherland.  The oaks, so high, the violets nodding.  It was a dream.  Kissed by German, said in German, the words ‘I love you’.  It was a dream.”

Tragically, she lost her life in 1898 in an assassination at the hands of an anarchist.

© Will van der Walt

www.willwilltravel.wordpress.com

Les Semboules, Antibes

May, 2019

 

Sources

La Statue du poète Heine « Réfugiée » à Toulon, by André Peyrègne. Nous, Nice-Matin. 16 February, 2019

Wikipedia Elizabeth Austrian empress

My translation of poem

 

Images

Wikipedia Elizabeth, Heinrich Heine

 

 

 

 

The statue of a poet

First in a series of three

Where you live, there are stories.  And, if you look hard enough, the facts of those stories could blow you away.  The history of the statue of the German Romantic poet Heinrich Heine (1797-1856) in the botanical gardens at Toulon, about 110 kms from me, is one of those stories.  The poet himself never set foot in this coastal city.  And as Kaiser Wilhelm II said about the statue, in very different circumstances, What is this bloke doing here?

It is an epic account.  It is a story that throws light on later streams of history in the 20th-century.  It is a story of an epoch, of a worldview that has vanished, leaving us the poorer.  It is a story about poetry, about the spirit of poetry, about love and hate, about rebels, about ecstasy and tragedy.  And, ultimately, about the irony of this statue in a coastal city in the south of France.

I must confess.  I have never seen this statue, nor have I been in the botanical gardens — Jardin d’Acclimatation — in the suburb of Mourillon in Toulon.  It is the story that knocks me sideways.

I became aware of Heine’s poems in the lieder of Schumann and Schubert.  The list of composers that have used his lyrical poetry is long.  Love, the beauty of nature, Nordic folk tales  –  these were the subjects that made him one of the foremost Romantic poets in German.

The Rhineland that Heine eulogized

 

There lies the heat of summer

On your cheek’s lovely art:

There lies the cold of winter

Within your little heart.

 

That will change, beloved,

The end not as the start!

Winter on your cheek then,

Summer in your heart.

But (why is there always a “but”?) the social and political climate would not support him.  He was distantly related to Karl Marx, exchanged letters with the old man and celebrated the ideology.  In the conservative climate of Düsseldorf, in the then-Prussia, where Heine was born, especially after the Napoleonic wars, Heine’s political tracts were considered as unpatriotic.  It is uncanny that, in 1834, Heine prophesied that the “Germanic love for war” would rise like a modern-day Thor and smash the Gothic cathedrals.  Ninety-nine years later, this nightmare, taking different forms, would begin.  It is significant too, that Heine was of Jewish descent.  The anti-semitism that brought on the embrace of the devil in the 20th-century, was already lurking in Germany.  Heine fled to Paris.

© Will van der Walt

www.willwilltravel.wordpress.com

Les Semboules, Antibes

May, 2019

Sources

La Statue du poète Heine « Réfugiée » à Toulon, by André Peyrègne. Nous, Nice-Matin. 16 February, 2019

Wikipedia Heinrich Heine

Translation of poem by A. Kline

 

Images

Wikipedia Heinrich Heine

Wikipedia painting  

 

 

 

 

 

Photographs that would be abstracts

A small group of pics that I took approached me and said, Hey, we’d like to be abstract works of art.  I said, What are you talking about?  Abstract, they said.  Abstract … surely you know what that means.  Well, I said, I’m not quite sure…  Just let us be.  Abstract art kind of sets you free.  It’s like chords of music.  Maybe jazz chords … I looked at them.  Will other people understand? I asked.  Well, said the pics, let them make of us what they like.  We’re not supposed to BE anything, but if we can cause a ripple of feeling across the still surface of the water … I frowned.  Should I tell people what I originally photographed?  Do what you please.  Just let us in the door.  I thought, Okay.  Can’t do any harm.

 

 

 

 

 

(c) Will van der Walt

http://www.willwilltravel.wordpress.com

Les Semboules, Antibes

May, 2019

 

I include what it was that I originally photographed.  Some images have been through the graphics programme.

1  Pop art at Nice airport

2  Shadows on a pillar in the crypt of a church

3  Cobbles in the medieval quarter, Antibes

4  Cracks in tarmac

5  Hangang Soccer Stadium, West Seoul

6  and 7  Ceiling paintings over stairways in Nice Contemporary Art Museum

8  Stairway leading my apartment, Somerset West, Western Cape

9  Close-up of a caraffe of water

10  Steps next to a country house, Grasse