Why do invaders of a country have the need to destroy sacred places, especially? In Antibes, archaeologists have found the remains of at least five different cultures and I wonder to what extent each layer represented initial destruction. These diggings have been made in the Chapel of St Esprit, adjoining the Cathedral in Antibes.
The bell tower of Chapelle St Esprit
In 476 a.d., during the huge political ferment of invasions by Northern Europeans – Ostrogoths, Vandals, Visigoths, to mention some — Visigoths occupied Antibes, sacking and destroying the Chapel of St Mary, established mere decades before, later to be the Cathedral. I am uncertain as to how many of these invaders might well have been Christian themselves.
Cathedral and Saracen tower
In 1125 the church was once more sacked and destroyed by invading Saracens. The presence of Saracens in Provence had ended in 973 when William the Liberator destroyed the settlement at Fraxinet. In the ensuing years the church was rebuilt, restored and given the form of a cathedral it has today.
Cathedral with baroque facade
The Germans occupied Antibes from late-1942 to August, 1944. The Cathedral was left unharmed. In the distance, I recall hearing of a German general who delayed the total destruction of Florence, at the express orders of Hitler, until it was too late.
Choir end of Cathedral, considered the oldest part
But Catholics of Antibes need, ironically, to reflect on how their own forebears built this sacred place on the ruins of a pagan temple, probably dedicated to Aphrodite. Archaeologists in 1860 even found the remains of the pagan altar under the choir section of the Cathedral. The historian cryptically notes that the altar was “for sacrifices” which would somehow justify destroying that sacred place.
Cathedral of St Mary, Antibes
© Will van der Walt
www.willwilltravel.wordpress.com
Les Semboules, Antibes
September, 2018
Sources
Michael Nelson : The French Riviera A history (Matador, London. 2017)
David Abulafia: The Great Sea (Penguin Books, 2011)
John J. Norwich: The Middle Sea (Vintage Books, London. 2007)
Images
My photographs